New Zealand Gold Prospecting & Metal Detecting Forums Archive

I'm just curious what tips and tricks people have for modifying / adapting their detector to take on missions, bush bash, etc?

With my Gold Bug I'm thinking of replacing the screws that hold the control box to the stem with some sort of butterfly screws so I can quickly and easily detach it. Would mean I can break the detector down even smaller for fitting in my pack for tramping easily into areas. Would also mean I can protect the control box by storing it in some tupperware container while it's fighting for room in my pack.

I've seen some people adapt the arm rest so it's a bit smaller and so easier to pack. Removing the part for the arm and then reversing the smaller ground stand bit around found at the back of the arm rest so that now acts as an arm rest itself.

I've also seen people go crazy with silicon seal to make sure the lead connector on the coil itself is super waterproof, even if the manufacturer indicates the coil is waterproof anyway. I guess it probably helps as the coil gets old and waterproofness might become slightly compromised due to lead flex etc.

Any other cool ideas out there to share?

I must admit that the tupperware idea was nicked off another member here ;) He does it with his Minelab X-TERRA 705. The control box on that's made to come off the stem easily so no probs for him.

Interesting idea! You'd need a good sturdy fishing rod though as wouldn't want the coil wobbling back and forth of it's own accord :P

haha yea but you would only need the handle and the first couple of extensions then cut off the flimsy end sections.
Most telescopic rods open up to around 6ft and above but collapse down to 2ft or the size of the handle. You only need about 4ft to make it work. Easy to stap to the side of a pack.

I think the gold bug has a 7ft cable??

I must admit that the shaft on the Gold Bug isn't really an issue as it breaks down in to 3 much smaller easy to handle bits anyway ;)

Here's a bodge I use on my F4 for night hunts - allows screen illumination on demand to check depth/batt/VDI etc with ease.
Operation is simple with just a finger press without changing grip or fumbling with headlamps/propointers/candles and no loss of night vision.

I originally used a red LED, but it was too dim, a white was too much so I settled with yellow which works nicely.

The LED is mounted into a strip of acrylic which is shaped and fits between the head unit and the shaft, there is a 'wing' off to the side to which is glued the switch, and to that, the single CR2032 coin cell (3v 180mAh). Connection to the cell is nothing more than a spiral of bared conductor held in place with insulating tape...then coloured black with a permanent marker - no expense spared!
The leads from the LED are in heatshrink, and then hot-glued to the acrylic in order to make it so ugly that no-one will steal the machine.

Best orientation for the LED is at 45° from below and about 2cm away from the screen, still allows pinpoint access if needed, but that is either on or off rather than flicking back and forward, depending on what and where of the search. The LED actually has no reflected glare and a better spread - but that's the only way I could get the camera to focus in the dark.

The screen itself has a cutdown Ipad screen protector over it, installed after the original screen got its first scratch from a careless wipe. You get two screen pieces from one Ipad sheet.

Edited by user Tuesday, 18 February 2014 8:57:26 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Not a bad idea! I usually have a pocket full of clear plastic bags for this reason, but I like your ready-to-go-at-a-moments-notice variation ;)

Now if Fisher would only bring out a waterproof version so that you don't even have to this about this...